Maytag Refrigerator Error Codes
Lookup & Diagnostics

1-1 (flashing lights)

Door latch not confirmed (legacy flash pattern) — latch, switch, or alignment.

Dishwasher →

10-5 (flashing lights)

Stuck keypad (legacy flash pattern) — a control-panel key reads as pressed.

Dishwasher →

6-1

No inlet water (legacy flash pattern) — water supply, inlet valve, or float fault.

Dishwasher →

8-1

Heating-element fault (legacy flash pattern) — the element or its circuit is not heating.

Dishwasher →

8-4 (flashing lights)

Temperature-sensor fault (legacy flash pattern) — thermistor or its wiring.

Dishwasher →

8-5 (flashing lights)

Circulation-pump fault (legacy flash pattern) — pump, impeller, or wiring.

Dishwasher →

9-1 (flashing lights)

Diverter-valve fault (legacy flash pattern) — water not routed correctly between spray arms.

Dishwasher →

AF / F4E3

Restricted airflow — a clogged lint screen or blocked vent; clear it and press to resume.

Dryer →

Auto Shutoff Stuck

Stuck on "bin full"/"empty" — a jammed shutoff arm or bin-level sensor.

Ice Maker →

Both Fan and Light Dead

Fan and lights both dead — no power to the circuit, a harness fault, or the control board.

Range Hood →

dET

Auto-dose cartridge not detected — reseat or refill it; check the dispenser sensor if it persists.

Washer →

Door Not Sealing

Door will not seal — a worn or dirty gasket, a sagging door, or blocked shelves.

Refrigerator →

Door Not Sealing

Door will not seal — a worn or dirty gasket, misalignment, or a sagging hinge.

Freezer →

Drain Pump Not Pumping

Melt water not clearing — a clogged drain line, kinked hose, or a failed drain pump.

Ice Maker →

drn

Water left in the tub at the start of a cycle — clogged filter, drain hose, or a failed drain pump.

Washer →

E03

Control / keypad fault — the control board is not reading the touch panel correctly.

Microwave →

E11

Over-the-range sensor / control fault — route to service if it persists after a reset.

Microwave →

E12

Over-the-range control/sensor index code — meaning is model-specific; test and route to service.

Microwave →

E13

Over-the-range sensor/timing index code — model-specific; test sensor + control and route to service.

Microwave →

E21

Over-the-range control/sensor index code — model-specific; confirm with a meter, route to service.

Microwave →

E23

Over-the-range will-not-heat index code — model-specific; HV/magnetron + control need testing.

Microwave →

E61

Over-the-range control/sensor index code — model-specific; test and route to service.

Microwave →

F1E1

Main control / electrical fault — the control board detected an internal error.

Dishwasher →

F1E1

Oven control board / wiring fault — often caused by a power surge to the electronic control.

Range →

F1E4

Appliance control board / wiring fault — power-cycle at the breaker; if it persists, service.

Microwave →

F2E0

Stuck or shorted keypad — a control-panel key reads as continuously pressed.

Range →

F2E0

Stuck or shorted keypad — a key on the control panel reads as pressed.

Oven →

F2E2

User-interface communication fault between the control board and the touch panel.

Dishwasher →

F2E5

User-interface/keypad fault — a shorted key or unresponsive control panel.

Oven →

F3E0

Oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted — a bad sensor or its wiring.

Range →

F3E0

Upper-oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted — sensor or wiring fault.

Oven →

F3E2

Thermistor (temperature sensor) out of range — an open or shorted sensor circuit.

Dishwasher →

F4

A pan is on or too close to the touch panel, or the panel is too hot — re-center and power-cycle.

Cooktop →

F4E3

Wash (circulation) motor fault — the pump is not running as commanded; dishes stay dirty.

Dishwasher →

F5E0

Door-latch motor failed to lock for self-clean — latch motor, switch, or binding.

Range →

F5E0

Door-latch motor did not lock for self-clean — latch motor, switch, or binding.

Oven →

F5E1

Door latch assembly / switch fault — the latch is not confirming its position.

Range →

F5E1

Door latch fault — the latch motor/switch is not reaching the locked position.

Oven →

F5E2

Door will not lock — the front-load door lock failed to engage: latch, strike, or lock assembly.

Washer →

F6E1

Water inlet valve fault — little or no water entering at the fill step.

Dishwasher →

F6E3

Incorrect water level detected — a flow/level-sensor or inlet/drain restriction.

Dishwasher →

F6E4

Electric-cooktop control/element-circuit fault on the affected zone.

Cooktop →

F6E4

Water supply tap closed — the dishwasher is not getting the water it expects.

Dishwasher →

F7E1

Motor speed-sensing fault — often shipping bolts left in, an overload, or a drive/sensor issue.

Washer →

F7E1

Inverter overheat (OTR) — a ventilation or inverter fault; let it cool, then retest.

Microwave →

F7E2

Flow-meter fault — the control cannot accurately measure incoming water.

Dishwasher →

F8E1

Long fill — low water flow or supply (LF / Lo FL): inlet valves, hoses, or home water pressure.

Washer →

F8E2

Dispenser problem — the detergent/softener dispenser circuit is not responding as expected.

Washer →

F8E4

Too much water or not detecting water — a float-switch or water-inlet-valve fault.

Dishwasher →

F8E5

Flow meter not working — no usable flow signal during fill.

Dishwasher →

F9-1 (Gemini double oven)

Gemini double-oven upper-cavity door-latch fault — latch motor, switch, or wiring.

Range →

F9-2 (Gemini double oven)

Gemini double-oven lower-cavity door-latch fault — latch motor, switch, or wiring.

Range →

F9E0

Range miswired at the home supply (L2/N swapped) — needs an electrician.

Range →

F9E1

Long drain — the washer took too long to pump out: clogged filter, drain hose, or pump.

Washer →

F9E1

Not draining fast enough — a clogged drain hose, filter, or a failing drain pump.

Dishwasher →

Fan Hums But Will Not Spin

Motor hums without spinning — worn bearings, an obstructed wheel, or grease seizing it.

Range Hood →

Fan Will Not Run

Blower will not run (lights may work) — a fan switch, a failed motor, or the control board.

Range Hood →

FC (E1–E8 app errors)

Connectivity / control app-error family (FC E1–E8) — reset; basic cooking usually still works.

Microwave →

FC (E1–E9)

Connectivity (app-error) family — Wi-Fi / control comms; reset, or route to service.

Oven →

FC LF (and LR/RF/RR)

Element or relay fault (FC LF/LR/RF/RR) — a surface-element circuit is not responding.

Cooktop →

Flashing “F”

Control / diagnostic indicator — the control needs a reset; if it persists, service.

Refrigerator →

Freezer Not Freezing

Freezer will not hold temperature — coils, evaporator fan, or a defrost/sealed-system fault.

Refrigerator →

Frost Buildup

Excess frost on walls/coils — defrost heater/thermostat, or a door seal letting humid air in.

Freezer →

Frost or Ice Buildup

Frost/ice building inside — a defrost heater/thermostat fault or a door seal letting humid air in.

Refrigerator →

HC

Hot and cold inlet hoses reversed — the supply lines are connected to the wrong valves.

Washer →

Ice Tastes or Smells Bad

Off taste or odor — an old filter, stale stored ice, or a system due for a Clean Cycle.

Ice Maker →

Int

Cycle paused or canceled — the washer drains before resetting; resume or power off to clear.

Washer →

Interior Light Out

Interior light will not come on — a burnt bulb/LED, a failed door switch, or wiring.

Freezer →

L2

Low or no line voltage — a tripped leg of the 240V supply, or a wiring/breaker issue.

Dryer →

LdL

Lid will not lock — something caught under the lid, or a failed lid-lock assembly/strike.

Washer →

LdU

Lid stays locked after the cycle — the lid-lock failed to release; reset, then service if stuck.

Washer →

Leaking Water

Water leaking from the unit — a loose line fitting, a failed inlet valve, or overfilling.

Ice Maker →

lid

Lid open or not detected as closed — close it firmly; check the lid switch if it persists.

Washer →

Light Out

Light out but fan works — a burnt bulb/LED, a failed socket, or the light switch.

Range Hood →

LOC / LC

Control Lock is on — not a fault; hold the lock pad about three seconds to unlock.

Washer →

Lock / Control Lock

Control Lock is on — not a fault; hold the lock pad to unlock the cooktop.

Cooktop →

Low Ice Production

Makes ice but far less than rated — low pressure, a clogged filter, or a restricted valve.

Ice Maker →

No Heat

Drum turns but no heat — a blown thermal fuse, failed element/igniter, or thermostat.

Dryer →

Noisy Operation

Louder than normal — a failing fan motor, a rattling drain pan, or a worn compressor mount.

Refrigerator →

Noisy Operation

Thumping, squealing, or grinding — worn rollers, idler pulley, belt, or motor bearing.

Dryer →

Noisy or Rattling

Louder than normal or rattling — a greasy/unbalanced wheel, loose mounts, or worn bearings.

Range Hood →

Not Cooling

Runs but the fridge is too warm — dirty coils, a failed evaporator fan, or defrost/sealed-system fault.

Refrigerator →

Not Freezing

Runs but will not get cold enough — dirty coils, a failed fan, low refrigerant, or compressor.

Freezer →

Not Harvesting or Ejecting

Ice forms but will not release — a stalled harvest motor, mold heater, or bridged ice.

Ice Maker →

Not Making Ice

Powered but makes no ice — water supply, a failed inlet valve, or a stalled ice-maker module.

Ice Maker →

Not Powering On

No signs of power — a tripped outlet/breaker, a failed power supply, or control board.

Ice Maker →

Not Running At All

Completely dead — no power at the outlet, a failed start relay, or a defective compressor.

Freezer →

Ofb / oL

Out of balance or overload — an uneven or oversized load the washer cannot spin safely.

Washer →

Overheats or Stops Mid-Cycle

Gets too hot and shuts off mid-cycle — restricted airflow or a failed cycling thermostat.

Dryer →

PF

A power failure interrupted the cycle — restart; check the outlet/cord if it keeps returning.

Washer →

PF

Power failure during the cycle — power was interrupted; restart the cycle.

Dryer →

PO

Power-Outage alert — power was lost and the freezer warmed; acknowledge on the panel to clear.

Refrigerator →

rL / F34

Laundry detected during the Clean Washer cycle — remove items and restart the cycle empty.

Washer →

Running Constantly

Compressor never cycles off — dirty coils, a worn gasket, or a faulty thermostat.

Freezer →

Running Constantly

The fridge compressor barely cycles off — dirty condenser coils, a worn door gasket, or a faulty thermostat.

Refrigerator →

Sealed-System Leak

Refrigerant leak in the sealed system — cooling slowly fails; needs experienced refrigerant handling.

Freezer →

Sud / Sd

Excess suds — too much or the wrong detergent; the washer pauses to clear the foam.

Washer →

Takes Too Long to Dry

Loads take far too long — a clogged lint screen/vent, weak element, or moisture sensor.

Dryer →

Temperature Alarm or Indicator Light

Temperature-warning light/alarm — door-ajar, a power interruption, or a warming compartment.

Freezer →

Tripping the Breaker

Running it trips the breaker — a shorted element, failing motor, or damaged wiring. Stop using it.

Dryer →

U (pan detection)

Induction pan-detection — no suitable ferromagnetic, correctly sized, centered pan.

Cooktop →

Water Dispenser Not Working

Little or no dispensed water — an old filter, a frozen line, or a failed dispenser valve.

Refrigerator →

Water Leaking

Water pooling inside or on the floor — a clogged defrost drain or a leaking supply line.

Refrigerator →

Water Not Filling

Mold is not getting water — a closed valve, a failed inlet valve, or a frozen fill tube.

Ice Maker →

Weak Suction

Runs but pulls little air — a clogged grease/charcoal filter or a blocked/long duct.

Range Hood →

Will Not Start

Does nothing or hums on Start — a door switch, start switch, thermal fuse, or power leg.

Dryer →

Will Not Tumble

Powers on but the drum will not turn — a broken belt, idler pulley, or drive motor.

Dryer →

Will Not Turn Off

Fan or lights stay on — a stuck switch or a failed/shorted control.

Range Hood →