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Maytag Appliance Error Codes
Lookup & Diagnostics

Find your error code, understand what it means, and learn whether you need professional service. Covers every Maytag appliance category — cooktops, dishwashers, dryers, freezers, ice makers, microwaves, ovens, ranges, range hoods, refrigerators, and washers.

108 Error codes
11 Appliance types
93 Service areas
73 Models covered

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1-1 (flashing lights)
Door latch not confirmed (legacy flash pattern) — latch, switch, or alignment.
Dishwasher →
10-5 (flashing lights)
Stuck keypad (legacy flash pattern) — a control-panel key reads as pressed.
Dishwasher →
6-1
No inlet water (legacy flash pattern) — water supply, inlet valve, or float problem.
Dishwasher →
8-1
Heating-element failure (legacy flash pattern) — the element or its circuit is not heating.
Dishwasher →
8-4 (flashing lights)
Temperature-sensor failure (legacy flash pattern) — thermistor or its wiring.
Dishwasher →
8-5 (flashing lights)
Circulation-pump failure (legacy flash pattern) — pump, impeller, or wiring.
Dishwasher →
9-1 (flashing lights)
Diverter-valve failure (legacy flash pattern) — water not routed correctly between spray arms.
Dishwasher →
AF / F4E3
Restricted airflow — a clogged lint screen or blocked vent; clear it and press to resume.
Dryer →
Auto Shutoff Stuck
Stuck on "bin full"/"empty" — a jammed shutoff arm or bin-level sensor.
Ice Maker →
Both Fan and Light Dead
Fan and lights both dead — no power to the circuit, a harness failure, or the control board.
Range Hood →
dET
Auto-dose cartridge not detected — reseat or refill it; check the dispenser sensor if it persists.
Washer →
Door Not Sealing
Door will not seal — a worn or dirty gasket, a sagging door, or blocked shelves.
Refrigerator →
Door Not Sealing
Door will not seal — a worn or dirty gasket, misalignment, or a sagging hinge.
Freezer →
Drain Pump Not Pumping
Melt water not clearing — a clogged drain line, kinked hose, or a failed drain pump.
Ice Maker →
drn
Water left in the tub at the start of a cycle — clogged filter, drain hose, or a failed drain pump.
Washer →
E03
Control / keypad failure — the control board is not reading the touch panel correctly.
Microwave →
E11
Over-the-range sensor / control failure — route to service if it persists after a reset.
Microwave →
E12
Over-the-range control/sensor index code — meaning is model-specific; test and route to service.
Microwave →
E13
Over-the-range sensor/timing index code — model-specific; test sensor + control and route to service.
Microwave →
E21
Over-the-range control/sensor index code — model-specific; confirm with a meter, route to service.
Microwave →
E23
Over-the-range will-not-heat index code — model-specific; HV/magnetron + control need testing.
Microwave →
E61
Over-the-range control/sensor index code — model-specific; test and route to service.
Microwave →
F1E1
Main control / electrical problem — the control board detected an internal error.
Dishwasher →
F1E1
Oven control board / wiring failure — often caused by a power surge to the electronic control.
Range →
F1E4
Appliance control board / wiring failure — power-cycle at the breaker; if it persists, service.
Microwave →
F2E0
Stuck or shorted keypad — a control-panel key reads as continuously pressed.
Range →
F2E0
Stuck or shorted keypad — a key on the control panel reads as pressed.
Oven →
F2E2
User-interface communication problem between the control board and the touch panel.
Dishwasher →
F2E5
User-interface/keypad failure — a shorted key or unresponsive control panel.
Oven →
F3E0
Oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted — a bad sensor or its wiring.
Range →
F3E0
Upper-oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted — sensor or wiring failure.
Oven →
F3E2
Thermistor (temperature sensor) out of range — an open or shorted sensor circuit.
Dishwasher →
F4
A pan is on or too close to the touch panel, or the panel is too hot — re-center and power-cycle.
Cooktop →
F4E3
Wash (circulation) motor failure — the pump is not running as commanded; dishes stay dirty.
Dishwasher →
F5E0
Door-latch motor failed to lock for self-clean — latch motor, switch, or binding.
Range →
F5E0
Door-latch motor did not lock for self-clean — latch motor, switch, or binding.
Oven →
F5E1
Door latch assembly / switch failure — the latch is not confirming its position.
Range →
F5E1
Door latch failure — the latch motor/switch is not reaching the locked position.
Oven →
F5E2
Door will not lock — the front-load door lock failed to engage: latch, strike, or lock assembly.
Washer →
F6E1
Water inlet valve failure — little or no water entering at the fill step.
Dishwasher →
F6E3
Incorrect water level detected — a flow/level-sensor or inlet/drain restriction.
Dishwasher →
F6E4
Electric-cooktop control/element-circuit failure on the affected zone.
Cooktop →
F6E4
Water supply tap closed — the dishwasher is not getting the water it expects.
Dishwasher →
F7E1
Motor speed-sensing problem — often shipping bolts left in, an overload, or a drive/sensor issue.
Washer →
F7E1
Inverter overheat (OTR) — a ventilation or inverter failure; let it cool, then retest.
Microwave →
F7E2
Flow-meter problem — the control cannot accurately measure incoming water.
Dishwasher →
F8E1
Long fill — low water flow or supply (LF / Lo FL): inlet valves, hoses, or home water pressure.
Washer →
F8E2
Dispenser problem — the detergent/softener dispenser circuit is not responding as expected.
Washer →
F8E4
Too much water or not detecting water — a float-switch or water-inlet-valve failure.
Dishwasher →
F8E5
Flow meter not working — no usable flow signal during fill.
Dishwasher →
F9-1 (Gemini double oven)
Gemini double-oven upper-cavity door-latch failure — latch motor, switch, or wiring.
Range →
F9-2 (Gemini double oven)
Gemini double-oven lower-cavity door-latch failure — latch motor, switch, or wiring.
Range →
F9E0
Range miswired at the home supply (L2/N swapped) — needs an electrician.
Range →
F9E1
Long drain — the washer took too long to pump out: clogged filter, drain hose, or pump.
Washer →
F9E1
Not draining fast enough — a clogged drain hose, filter, or a failing drain pump.
Dishwasher →
Fan Hums But Will Not Spin
Motor hums without spinning — worn bearings, an obstructed wheel, or grease seizing it.
Range Hood →
Fan Will Not Run
Blower will not run (lights may work) — a fan switch, a failed motor, or the control board.
Range Hood →
FC (E1–E8 app errors)
Connectivity / control app-error family (FC E1–E8) — reset; basic cooking usually still works.
Microwave →
FC (E1–E9)
Connectivity (app-error) family — Wi-Fi / control comms; reset, or route to service.
Oven →
FC LF (and LR/RF/RR)
Element or relay failure (FC LF/LR/RF/RR) — a surface-element circuit is not responding.
Cooktop →
Flashing “F”
Control / diagnostic indicator — the control needs a reset; if it persists, service.
Refrigerator →
Freezer Not Freezing
Freezer will not hold temperature — coils, evaporator fan, or a defrost/sealed-system problem.
Refrigerator →
Frost Buildup
Excess frost on walls/coils — defrost heater/thermostat, or a door seal letting humid air in.
Freezer →
Frost or Ice Buildup
Frost/ice building inside — a defrost heater/thermostat failure or a door seal letting humid air in.
Refrigerator →
HC
Hot and cold inlet hoses reversed — the supply lines are connected to the wrong valves.
Washer →
Ice Tastes or Smells Bad
Off taste or odor — an old filter, stale stored ice, or a system due for a Clean Cycle.
Ice Maker →
Int
Cycle paused or canceled — the washer drains before resetting; resume or power off to clear.
Washer →
Interior Light Out
Interior light will not come on — a burnt bulb/LED, a failed door switch, or wiring.
Freezer →
L2
Low or no line voltage — a tripped leg of the 240V supply, or a wiring/breaker issue.
Dryer →
LdL
Lid will not lock — something caught under the lid, or a failed lid-lock assembly/strike.
Washer →
LdU
Lid stays locked after the cycle — the lid-lock failed to release; reset, then service if stuck.
Washer →
Leaking Water
Water leaking from the unit — a loose line fitting, a failed inlet valve, or overfilling.
Ice Maker →
lid
Lid open or not detected as closed — close it firmly; check the lid switch if it persists.
Washer →
Light Out
Light out but fan works — a burnt bulb/LED, a failed socket, or the light switch.
Range Hood →
LOC / LC
Control Lock is on — not a problem; hold the lock pad about three seconds to unlock.
Washer →
Lock / Control Lock
Control Lock is on — not a problem; hold the lock pad to unlock the cooktop.
Cooktop →
Low Ice Production
Makes ice but far less than rated — low pressure, a clogged filter, or a restricted valve.
Ice Maker →
No Heat
Drum turns but no heat — a blown thermal fuse, failed element/igniter, or thermostat.
Dryer →
Noisy Operation
Louder than normal — a failing fan motor, a rattling drain pan, or a worn compressor mount.
Refrigerator →
Noisy Operation
Thumping, squealing, or grinding — worn rollers, idler pulley, belt, or motor bearing.
Dryer →
Noisy or Rattling
Louder than normal or rattling — a greasy/unbalanced wheel, loose mounts, or worn bearings.
Range Hood →
Not Cooling
Runs but the fridge is too warm — dirty coils, a failed evaporator fan, or defrost/sealed-system problem.
Refrigerator →
Not Freezing
Runs but will not get cold enough — dirty coils, a failed fan, low refrigerant, or compressor.
Freezer →
Not Harvesting or Ejecting
Ice forms but will not release — a stalled harvest motor, mold heater, or bridged ice.
Ice Maker →
Not Making Ice
Powered but makes no ice — water supply, a failed inlet valve, or a stalled ice-maker module.
Ice Maker →
Not Powering On
No signs of power — a tripped outlet/breaker, a failed power supply, or control board.
Ice Maker →
Not Running At All
Completely dead — no power at the outlet, a failed start relay, or a defective compressor.
Freezer →
Ofb / oL
Out of balance or overload — an uneven or oversized load the washer cannot spin safely.
Washer →
Overheats or Stops Mid-Cycle
Gets too hot and shuts off mid-cycle — restricted airflow or a failed cycling thermostat.
Dryer →
PF
A power failure interrupted the cycle — restart; check the outlet/cord if it keeps returning.
Washer →
PF
Power failure during the cycle — power was interrupted; restart the cycle.
Dryer →
PO
Power-Outage alert — power was lost and the freezer warmed; acknowledge on the panel to clear.
Refrigerator →
rL / F34
Laundry detected during the Clean Washer cycle — remove items and restart the cycle empty.
Washer →
Running Constantly
Compressor never cycles off — dirty coils, a worn gasket, or a faulty thermostat.
Freezer →
Running Constantly
The fridge compressor barely cycles off — dirty condenser coils, a worn door gasket, or a faulty thermostat.
Refrigerator →
Sealed-System Leak
Refrigerant leak in the sealed system — cooling slowly fails; needs experienced refrigerant handling.
Freezer →
Sud / Sd
Excess suds — too much or the wrong detergent; the washer pauses to clear the foam.
Washer →
Takes Too Long to Dry
Loads take far too long — a clogged lint screen/vent, weak element, or moisture sensor.
Dryer →
Temperature Alarm or Indicator Light
Temperature-warning light/alarm — door-ajar, a power interruption, or a warming compartment.
Freezer →
Tripping the Breaker
Running it trips the breaker — a shorted element, failing motor, or damaged wiring. Stop using it.
Dryer →
U (pan detection)
Induction pan-detection — no suitable ferromagnetic, correctly sized, centered pan.
Cooktop →
Water Dispenser Not Working
Little or no dispensed water — an old filter, a frozen line, or a failed dispenser valve.
Refrigerator →
Water Leaking
Water pooling inside or on the floor — a clogged defrost drain or a leaking supply line.
Refrigerator →
Water Not Filling
Mold is not getting water — a closed valve, a failed inlet valve, or a frozen fill tube.
Ice Maker →
Weak Suction
Runs but pulls little air — a clogged grease/charcoal filter or a blocked/long duct.
Range Hood →
Will Not Start
Does nothing or hums on Start — a door switch, start switch, thermal fuse, or power leg.
Dryer →
Will Not Tumble
Powers on but the drum will not turn — a broken belt, idler pulley, or drive motor.
Dryer →
Will Not Turn Off
Fan or lights stay on — a stuck switch or a failed/shorted control.
Range Hood →
About Maytag error codes

What error codes mean on Maytag appliances

Every modern Maytag appliance has an onboard diagnostic system that displays alphanumeric error codes when something goes wrong. These aren’t random — each code maps to a specific component, sensor, or system failure. Understanding what your code means helps you decide whether the fix is a quick reset or requires a certified technician.

Error code formats vary by appliance category. Dishwashers use E-codes like E15 (leak detection) and E24 (drain problem). Refrigerators and laundry appliances share a similar E-numbering system but with different meanings. Ranges and ovens may use longer codes like E011 or E305 that reference specific circuits.

How Maytag diagnostic systems work

Maytag uses a layered diagnostic architecture across its appliance lineup. At the core is a main control board (PCB) that monitors inputs from sensors — NTC temperature probes, flow meters, tachometers, pressure switches, and door interlocks. When a sensor reading falls outside its expected range, or a component fails to respond within a set timeout, the control board logs a problem and triggers the error display.

Some appliances store error history even after a power reset. On Maytag dishwashers, you can access a hidden diagnostic mode by pressing a specific button combination (varies by series — our individual model pages list the exact steps). Maytag washers and dryers store the last several error codes in memory, which our technicians read with Maytag-specific diagnostic tools during a service visit.

How to read your error code

  1. Locate the display — most codes appear on the main control panel or LED readout. Some dishwashers flash the code through indicator lights instead of a digital display.
  2. Note the exact code — write down exactly what appears, including leading zeros. E01 and E1 may reference different problems depending on the appliance.
  3. Check the appliance type — the same code can mean different things on a dishwasher vs. a dryer. Use the filter tabs above to narrow down your category.
  4. Try a power reset first — unplug the appliance for 60 seconds, then restore power. If the code reappears, the issue requires diagnosis.
  5. Check for simple causes — before calling for service, verify the basics: water supply is on, drain hose isn’t kinked, filters are clean, the door is latching properly. Our individual code pages list specific self-checks for each error.

Most common error codes across all Maytag appliances

Certain problem patterns appear far more often than others. Based on our service data across thousands of Maytag repairs:

  • E24 (dishwasher) — drain blockage. The single most common Maytag error code we see. In about 30% of cases, cleaning the drain filter resolves it without a service call. See our drain troubleshooting guide.
  • E15 (dishwasher) — water in the base pan tripped the AquaStop flood sensor. Sometimes caused by a minor splash during loading rather than a real leak. Our AquaStop guide explains how to check.
  • E18 (washer) — drain timeout. Often caused by a clogged coin trap or kinked drain hose rather than a pump failure.
  • E64 (dryer) — heating system problem. On conventional dryers, usually a failed heating element. On heat pump models, may indicate a refrigerant issue requiring sealed-system service.
  • E011 (oven) — temperature sensor failure. The NTC probe inside the oven cavity has drifted or failed. An inexpensive repair when caught early.

When to call for service

Some codes indicate minor issues you can resolve yourself — a clogged filter, a tripped breaker, a door that wasn’t fully closed. Our individual code pages walk through these self-check steps first.

But codes related to sealed systems (compressors, refrigerant), electrical components (heating elements, control boards), gas valves, or persistent leak detection should always be handled by a certified technician. Operating an appliance with an active error code can cause secondary damage that turns a routine repair into an expensive one.

Warning signs that require immediate attention:

  • Burning smell or visible sparking — disconnect power immediately and call for service
  • Gas smell near a range or oven — leave the area, ventilate, and contact your gas company before scheduling appliance repair
  • Water actively leaking — shut off the water supply valve behind or below the appliance
  • Code reappears after every power reset — the problem is persistent and won’t resolve without parts replacement
  • Multiple codes displaying simultaneously — may indicate a control board failure rather than individual component issues

Error codes vs. warning indicators

Not every display message is an error code. Maytag appliances also show status indicators and reminders that don’t represent problems:

  • Rinse aid indicator (dishwasher) — the rinse aid reservoir is low. Refill it; no repair needed.
  • Filter reminder (dryer) — clean the lint filter. This is a maintenance prompt, not an error code.
  • Water filter indicator (refrigerator) — the water filter is due for replacement based on a timer, not actual filter condition.
  • Demo/exhibition mode — the appliance appears to run but doesn’t heat or use water. Usually activated accidentally during installation. Check your model’s manual for the deactivation sequence.

Repair costs by error type

Error codes vary dramatically in repair cost. Sensor replacements (NTC probes, thermistors, flow meters) are typically the least expensive — parts start from $15 and labor is minimal. Mechanical components like pumps, motors, and door assemblies fall in the mid-range. Control board replacements and sealed-system work (compressors, refrigerant) are the most expensive repairs.

Our detailed cost guides break down pricing by appliance type: dishwasher repair costs, refrigerator repair costs, washer repair costs, dryer repair costs, and oven & range repair costs. Every code page on this site also includes a typical repair cost range so you know what to expect before booking.

Error codes by appliance type

Each appliance category has its own set of error codes. Use these links to jump directly to the codes for your appliance:

Preventing error codes with maintenance

Many of the most common error codes are preventable with routine maintenance. A few minutes of care each month can avoid expensive service calls:

  • Dishwashers — clean the drain filter monthly and run a cleaning cycle every 2-3 months. This prevents E22 and E24 drain problems.
  • Dryers — clean the vent duct annually and the lint filter after every load. Restricted airflow triggers E40 and E64 heating problems.
  • Washers — clean the coin trap/drain filter every 3 months. Foreign objects in the pump cause E18 drain problems and can damage the impeller.
  • Refrigerators — clean condenser coils every 6-12 months. Dust buildup causes the compressor to overwork, eventually triggering temperature error codes.
  • Ovens — avoid running self-clean more than twice a year. The extreme heat (900°F+) is the leading cause of thermal fuse and control board failures.

Coverage and models

Our technicians carry diagnostic tools calibrated for every Maytag appliance series — 100, 300, 500, 800, and Benchmark. We service all Maytag models across all 50 US states. Whether your unit is current or legacy, we have the parts and expertise to get it running. Schedule your repair — same-day booking available 24/7.

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