A — Cooktop error codes
Maytag Cooktop Error Codes
Lookup & Diagnostics
All known error codes for Maytag cooktops — what each code means, self-check steps, and when to call an experienced technician.
108
Error codes
93
Service areas
73
Models covered
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B — Cooktop error codes
Maytag cooktop fault codes.
108 codes
1-1 (flashing lights)
Door latch not confirmed (legacy flash pattern) — latch, switch, or alignment.
10-5 (flashing lights)
Stuck keypad (legacy flash pattern) — a control-panel key reads as pressed.
6-1
No inlet water (legacy flash pattern) — water supply, inlet valve, or float fault.
8-1
Heating-element fault (legacy flash pattern) — the element or its circuit is not heating.
8-4 (flashing lights)
Temperature-sensor fault (legacy flash pattern) — thermistor or its wiring.
8-5 (flashing lights)
Circulation-pump fault (legacy flash pattern) — pump, impeller, or wiring.
9-1 (flashing lights)
Diverter-valve fault (legacy flash pattern) — water not routed correctly between spray arms.
AF / F4E3
Restricted airflow — a clogged lint screen or blocked vent; clear it and press to resume.
Auto Shutoff Stuck
Stuck on "bin full"/"empty" — a jammed shutoff arm or bin-level sensor.
Both Fan and Light Dead
Fan and lights both dead — no power to the circuit, a harness fault, or the control board.
dET
Auto-dose cartridge not detected — reseat or refill it; check the dispenser sensor if it persists.
Door Not Sealing
Door will not seal — a worn or dirty gasket, a sagging door, or blocked shelves.
Door Not Sealing
Door will not seal — a worn or dirty gasket, misalignment, or a sagging hinge.
Drain Pump Not Pumping
Melt water not clearing — a clogged drain line, kinked hose, or a failed drain pump.
drn
Water left in the tub at the start of a cycle — clogged filter, drain hose, or a failed drain pump.
E03
Control / keypad fault — the control board is not reading the touch panel correctly.
E11
Over-the-range sensor / control fault — route to service if it persists after a reset.
E12
Over-the-range control/sensor index code — meaning is model-specific; test and route to service.
E13
Over-the-range sensor/timing index code — model-specific; test sensor + control and route to service.
E21
Over-the-range control/sensor index code — model-specific; confirm with a meter, route to service.
E23
Over-the-range will-not-heat index code — model-specific; HV/magnetron + control need testing.
E61
Over-the-range control/sensor index code — model-specific; test and route to service.
F1E1
Main control / electrical fault — the control board detected an internal error.
F1E1
Oven control board / wiring fault — often caused by a power surge to the electronic control.
F1E4
Appliance control board / wiring fault — power-cycle at the breaker; if it persists, service.
F2E0
Stuck or shorted keypad — a control-panel key reads as continuously pressed.
F2E0
Stuck or shorted keypad — a key on the control panel reads as pressed.
F2E2
User-interface communication fault between the control board and the touch panel.
F2E5
User-interface/keypad fault — a shorted key or unresponsive control panel.
F3E0
Oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted — a bad sensor or its wiring.
F3E0
Upper-oven temperature sensor (RTD) open or shorted — sensor or wiring fault.
F3E2
Thermistor (temperature sensor) out of range — an open or shorted sensor circuit.
F4
A pan is on or too close to the touch panel, or the panel is too hot — re-center and power-cycle.
F4E3
Wash (circulation) motor fault — the pump is not running as commanded; dishes stay dirty.
F5E0
Door-latch motor failed to lock for self-clean — latch motor, switch, or binding.
F5E0
Door-latch motor did not lock for self-clean — latch motor, switch, or binding.
F5E1
Door latch assembly / switch fault — the latch is not confirming its position.
F5E1
Door latch fault — the latch motor/switch is not reaching the locked position.
F5E2
Door will not lock — the front-load door lock failed to engage: latch, strike, or lock assembly.
F6E1
Water inlet valve fault — little or no water entering at the fill step.
F6E3
Incorrect water level detected — a flow/level-sensor or inlet/drain restriction.
F6E4
Electric-cooktop control/element-circuit fault on the affected zone.
F6E4
Water supply tap closed — the dishwasher is not getting the water it expects.
F7E1
Motor speed-sensing fault — often shipping bolts left in, an overload, or a drive/sensor issue.
F7E1
Inverter overheat (OTR) — a ventilation or inverter fault; let it cool, then retest.
F7E2
Flow-meter fault — the control cannot accurately measure incoming water.
F8E1
Long fill — low water flow or supply (LF / Lo FL): inlet valves, hoses, or home water pressure.
F8E2
Dispenser problem — the detergent/softener dispenser circuit is not responding as expected.
F8E4
Too much water or not detecting water — a float-switch or water-inlet-valve fault.
F8E5
Flow meter not working — no usable flow signal during fill.
F9-1 (Gemini double oven)
Gemini double-oven upper-cavity door-latch fault — latch motor, switch, or wiring.
F9-2 (Gemini double oven)
Gemini double-oven lower-cavity door-latch fault — latch motor, switch, or wiring.
F9E0
Range miswired at the home supply (L2/N swapped) — needs an electrician.
F9E1
Long drain — the washer took too long to pump out: clogged filter, drain hose, or pump.
F9E1
Not draining fast enough — a clogged drain hose, filter, or a failing drain pump.
Fan Hums But Will Not Spin
Motor hums without spinning — worn bearings, an obstructed wheel, or grease seizing it.
Fan Will Not Run
Blower will not run (lights may work) — a fan switch, a failed motor, or the control board.
FC (E1–E8 app errors)
Connectivity / control app-error family (FC E1–E8) — reset; basic cooking usually still works.
FC (E1–E9)
Connectivity (app-error) family — Wi-Fi / control comms; reset, or route to service.
FC LF (and LR/RF/RR)
Element or relay fault (FC LF/LR/RF/RR) — a surface-element circuit is not responding.
Flashing “F”
Control / diagnostic indicator — the control needs a reset; if it persists, service.
Freezer Not Freezing
Freezer will not hold temperature — coils, evaporator fan, or a defrost/sealed-system fault.
Frost Buildup
Excess frost on walls/coils — defrost heater/thermostat, or a door seal letting humid air in.
Frost or Ice Buildup
Frost/ice building inside — a defrost heater/thermostat fault or a door seal letting humid air in.
HC
Hot and cold inlet hoses reversed — the supply lines are connected to the wrong valves.
Ice Tastes or Smells Bad
Off taste or odor — an old filter, stale stored ice, or a system due for a Clean Cycle.
Int
Cycle paused or canceled — the washer drains before resetting; resume or power off to clear.
Interior Light Out
Interior light will not come on — a burnt bulb/LED, a failed door switch, or wiring.
L2
Low or no line voltage — a tripped leg of the 240V supply, or a wiring/breaker issue.
LdL
Lid will not lock — something caught under the lid, or a failed lid-lock assembly/strike.
LdU
Lid stays locked after the cycle — the lid-lock failed to release; reset, then service if stuck.
Leaking Water
Water leaking from the unit — a loose line fitting, a failed inlet valve, or overfilling.
lid
Lid open or not detected as closed — close it firmly; check the lid switch if it persists.
Light Out
Light out but fan works — a burnt bulb/LED, a failed socket, or the light switch.
LOC / LC
Control Lock is on — not a fault; hold the lock pad about three seconds to unlock.
Lock / Control Lock
Control Lock is on — not a fault; hold the lock pad to unlock the cooktop.
Low Ice Production
Makes ice but far less than rated — low pressure, a clogged filter, or a restricted valve.
No Heat
Drum turns but no heat — a blown thermal fuse, failed element/igniter, or thermostat.
Noisy Operation
Louder than normal — a failing fan motor, a rattling drain pan, or a worn compressor mount.
Noisy Operation
Thumping, squealing, or grinding — worn rollers, idler pulley, belt, or motor bearing.
Noisy or Rattling
Louder than normal or rattling — a greasy/unbalanced wheel, loose mounts, or worn bearings.
Not Cooling
Runs but the fridge is too warm — dirty coils, a failed evaporator fan, or defrost/sealed-system fault.
Not Freezing
Runs but will not get cold enough — dirty coils, a failed fan, low refrigerant, or compressor.
Not Harvesting or Ejecting
Ice forms but will not release — a stalled harvest motor, mold heater, or bridged ice.
Not Making Ice
Powered but makes no ice — water supply, a failed inlet valve, or a stalled ice-maker module.
Not Powering On
No signs of power — a tripped outlet/breaker, a failed power supply, or control board.
Not Running At All
Completely dead — no power at the outlet, a failed start relay, or a defective compressor.
Ofb / oL
Out of balance or overload — an uneven or oversized load the washer cannot spin safely.
Overheats or Stops Mid-Cycle
Gets too hot and shuts off mid-cycle — restricted airflow or a failed cycling thermostat.
PF
A power failure interrupted the cycle — restart; check the outlet/cord if it keeps returning.
PF
Power failure during the cycle — power was interrupted; restart the cycle.
PO
Power-Outage alert — power was lost and the freezer warmed; acknowledge on the panel to clear.
rL / F34
Laundry detected during the Clean Washer cycle — remove items and restart the cycle empty.
Running Constantly
Compressor never cycles off — dirty coils, a worn gasket, or a faulty thermostat.
Running Constantly
The fridge compressor barely cycles off — dirty condenser coils, a worn door gasket, or a faulty thermostat.
Sealed-System Leak
Refrigerant leak in the sealed system — cooling slowly fails; needs experienced refrigerant handling.
Sud / Sd
Excess suds — too much or the wrong detergent; the washer pauses to clear the foam.
Takes Too Long to Dry
Loads take far too long — a clogged lint screen/vent, weak element, or moisture sensor.
Temperature Alarm or Indicator Light
Temperature-warning light/alarm — door-ajar, a power interruption, or a warming compartment.
Tripping the Breaker
Running it trips the breaker — a shorted element, failing motor, or damaged wiring. Stop using it.
U (pan detection)
Induction pan-detection — no suitable ferromagnetic, correctly sized, centered pan.
Water Dispenser Not Working
Little or no dispensed water — an old filter, a frozen line, or a failed dispenser valve.
Water Leaking
Water pooling inside or on the floor — a clogged defrost drain or a leaking supply line.
Water Not Filling
Mold is not getting water — a closed valve, a failed inlet valve, or a frozen fill tube.
Weak Suction
Runs but pulls little air — a clogged grease/charcoal filter or a blocked/long duct.
Will Not Start
Does nothing or hums on Start — a door switch, start switch, thermal fuse, or power leg.
Will Not Tumble
Powers on but the drum will not turn — a broken belt, idler pulley, or drive motor.
Will Not Turn Off
Fan or lights stay on — a stuck switch or a failed/shorted control.
Cooktop error codes explained
C — Need help?
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